Witnessing Democracy Under Siege: Return to a Struggling Myanmar
Witnessing Democracy Under Siege: Return to a Struggling Myanmar
Stories of Hope and Strength in the Face of Adversity
En route to Myanmar with over 20 hours of flying and 12 hours of layovers, I turned to writing to reflect on my last visit to this country in November 2022. Writing also served as therapy, helping me process the stark contrast between the political landscape I was leaving behind—a choice for president between two elderly white men, one bent on dismantling democratic norms—and the fierce struggle for democracy I have witnessed globally.
A Long History of Struggle and Resilience
Here in Myanmar, the pursuit of democracy has always felt profoundly urgent and necessary. Yet, the people seem to face relentless challenges at every turn.
A Decade of Visits and Deepening Engagement
Since 2006, I have been fortunate to visit Myanmar eight times in various roles with the Council on Foreign Relations, International Crisis Group, US Institute for Peace, the UN, and now for the International Legal Foundation. I’ve written extensively on the country, mostly on the military's persistent violence against ethnic groups and China’s influence. (For ex here, here and here). From my very first visit, I was deeply moved by the struggles, resilience, and spirit of the country’s diverse people.
Despite enduring a series of oppressive regimes over recent decades—from General Ne Win's coup in 1962 to the brutal military crackdown in 1988, and the ongoing conflicts post-2021 coup—their spirit remains unbroken. Pictures speak louder than words, so I included a slideshow of some photos I’ve taken during my travels across this enchanting country. I also brought Adrian to visit as soon as he was old enough to appreciate it.
In recent years, the crises in Myanmar have involved genocide and ethnic cleansing primarily targeting the Rohingya Muslims, with around 2 million displaced individuals and the world's largest refugee camp in Cox’s Bazar, Bangladesh. At the same time, other ethnic groups, such as the Karen, Kachin, Shan, and Chin communities, have faced severe violence and human rights abuses by the military. Since the February 2021 coup, the military's brutal crackdown has targeted both ethnic minorities and the broader population protesting against the coup, leading to human rights abuses, indiscriminate killings, the destruction of homes and villages, numerous deaths, and displacements, exacerbating the humanitarian crisis across the country.
The Persistent Crisis and Humanitarian Challenges
In November 2022, with my cancer stabilized on chemotherapy, it was time to return to Myanmar to support the lawyers leading the nation’s legal battles for the most vulnerable—protestors, minorities, minors, displaced persons, and detainees without legal representation. I had last seen these brave souls in Yangon in February 2020, just before COVID swept across the region, and had gifted them the last available boxes of N95 masks I could find in an LA Home Depot.
Returning Amidst Tumultuous Times
During that late 2022 visit, I witnessed an environment fraught with roadblocks, bombings, arson, and violent clashes among the military, resistance groups, and ethnic groups. Daily life was strained by steep inflation, curfews, and growing theft and looting. These lawyers and their staff faced harassment, phone confiscations, and escalating intimidation, particularly when representing Rohingya clients.
Despite these formidable hurdles, the lawyers were playing an even more pivotal role than prior to the coup. They had become the sole individuals authorized to access detainees within prison walls, as families and social services were barred from visiting. Using a holistic legal aid model, they collaborated with social workers to provide detainees not only with legal representation but also vital support such as food, medicine, clothing, and other essentials.
The Role of Legal Aid Lawyers in a Fractured Judicial System
Amid the country's pervasive crisis, marked by widespread human rights abuses, bribery and corruption, these lawyers steadfastly advocated for the fundamental right to a fair trial for every one of their clients. Their dedication and acumen was seen in their development of new legal strategies to counter the regime's crackdown on dissent, including the misuse of terrorism laws. They maintained the highest standards of practice, resulting in court clerks ceasing their attempts to solicit bribes from them. However, this integrity often meant their work was more challenging, as they frequently faced delays in receiving key documents.
As I immersed myself further into my work, I discovered that these lawyers, beyond their commendable levels of integrity, dedication, and professionalism, employed remarkably skillful strategies to navigate their exceedingly challenging circumstances. Their coping mechanisms included limiting exposure to distressing social media, practicing compassion and mindfulness, nurturing bonds with colleagues and friends, and collaborative problem-solving to tackle daily challenges.
Strategies for Coping and Resilience
When I asked about their stress levels on a scale of 1 to 10, which usually yields 8 or 9 in similar teams and organizations in the US and Europe, none rated their stress higher than 5. The reasons are likely complex and cultural, but certainly also include their skillful coping mechanisms.
We established foundational principles with individual and group coaching, focusing on navigating leadership challenges, enhancing effective communication, and fostering cohesive teamwork under pressure. I also delivered a resilience training program, a precursor to the one I conducted in the West Bank earlier this year, grounded in the latest findings from neuroscience and behavioral research. This research underscores that resilience—the capacity to recover from adversity, adapt, and thrive—can be systematically cultivated as a set of skills, particularly in challenging times.
The highly experiential training was designed to help participants cultivate beneficial behaviors, mental habits, and micro-practices that enhance personal resilience and foster a resilient culture within their teams and organization.
Engaging deeply with the personal narratives of the lawyers and their staff, and delving into their survival strategies amid such challenging circumstances, was a profoundly humbling experience. Their stories emerged as potent testimonials to courage and determination, echoing the resilient spirit I've witnessed in other conflict-ridden regions. Through these narratives, distinct universal themes surfaced—a strong commitment to justice, an extraordinary capacity to endure adversity, and a steadfast pursuit of hope, even in the bleakest moments. These included harrowing accounts of loved ones being incarcerated and mistreated. Discussing and processing the intense emotions surrounding these cases was the most challenging part of the work.
Celebrating Amidst Chaos
During my birthday, which coincided with the visit, the staff kindly arranged a grand party complete with cake and a vast array of pizzas. Eagerly, I took a bite of one of the pizza slices, only to encounter the bizarre combination of American cheesy crust with a hint of sweet Asian flavor. It made me wonder how, even in the most unexpected places, some of the least appealing elements of U.S. culture manage to leave their mark.
In summary, my 2022 trip to Myanmar amidst its tumultuous setting, revealed the steadfast resilience and unwavering pursuit of justice embodied by legal aid lawyers facing extraordinarily challenging circumstances. Witnessing their commitment to principles, adaptability, and unwavering support for one another in the face of adversity left a lasting impression on me. These remarkable individuals, navigating a fractured judicial system and societal upheaval, not only showcased professional prowess but also exemplified resilience, solidarity, and an unswerving dedication to human rights advocacy. Their narratives, steeped in courage and determination, resonate with the strength of the human spirit amidst the most trying circumstances, leaving me with a profound sense of admiration and humility.
Drawing Inspiration from Myanmar’s Lawyers
Their stories are a wellspring of inspiration, a testament to the enduring resilience inherent in the human spirit. In our turbulent world, marked by adversity and upheaval, the lives of the lawyers I have had the privilege to support in countries in conflict and transition stand as luminous beacons of hope. This current visit to Myanmar will last two weeks and take me to various offices in the country.
Reflecting back on my cancer, I see it as just another challenge—dwarfed by the daily struggles these individuals endure. Their extraordinary ability to navigate constant uncertainty with resilience and solidarity motivates me to meet my own circumstances with similar resolve. Their unwavering pursuit of justice amidst adversity offers invaluable lessons that guide my path forward. Their stories, filled with hope, fortitude, and steadfast commitment, encourage all of us to persist in crafting the intricate fabric of our lives, undeterred by the challenges we face. Their dedication to their cause and their capacity to thrive in the face of extreme hardship inspire me to tackle my health challenges with renewed strength and determination.
I will be back from Myanmar in a couple of weeks, perhaps with more stories to share. The resilience and dedication of these lawyers inspire me daily, and I am committed to amplifying their voices and supporting their invaluable work in any way I can.
Postscript: A Call to Support Legal Aid in Conflict Zones
I established a legacy fund to support these lawyers from the International Legal Foundation worldwide because, despite the crucial nature of their work, it often doesn't receive the same level of attention or funding as more visible causes like aiding refugees or combating hunger. Securing donations for legal aid in places like Myanmar and Afghanistan remains extraordinarily challenging, even with the urgent need. In these regions, the U.S. has completely withdrawn assistance, and other donors have followed suit. There must be a better way to support populations in civil war zones or under oppressive military regimes. Public defender offices are like emergency rooms for victims of fundamental human rights violations. They act as sanctuaries for the most vulnerable and underprivileged who struggle to navigate a complex justice system while seeking essential assistance.
These lawyers, social workers and their staff tirelessly under conditions that are difficult for most of us to imagine. They face constant threats, harassment, and the ever-present risk of violence, alongside challenges like spiraling inflation and frequent power cuts—all while striving to uphold justice and human rights. They are not just fighting individual cases but challenging systems that perpetuate oppression and inequality. Their efforts ensure that the voices of the marginalized are heard and that the rule of law is upheld in the most fragile environments.
Moreover, in a world where the struggle for democracy and human rights is increasingly global, their work transcends their own countries. It sets a precedent for justice everywhere. By supporting these advocates, we are investing in a future where human rights are universally respected and protected.
Adrian proudly wearing his Obama T-shirt (talking about him to whomever would listen!) Mandalay Hill, Feb 2009
